Cycling Challenge » Cycling the French Alps

Swiss Giants: Nufenen Pass and Furka Pass

Will — Tue, 26 Aug 2008 22:29:17 +0000

A pretty epic day!

There are loads of truly great climbs in central Switzerland which I have yet to explore. But today I rode two of the highest - amazing.

I started with the Nufenenpass - 2478 metres (over 8,100 feet). It’s pretty steep throughout, and just keeps getting more interesting. Hairpins galore! The other side goes into the Italian part of Switzerland so there was an Italian Col sign (Passo dell Novena) on the other side along with the German Col sign. Lots of cyclotourists on the road - English, Dutch, German, Italians and a few Swiss.

I descended back down and after a close inspection of my puny legs decided I had enough energy to also do the Furka Pass.

This is a pretty famous climb (2436 metres and just under 8000 feet) and was thoroughly enjoyable. It’s a fair bit easier then Nufenen - which suited me fine.

Part way up the road splits with the route to the Gimsel Pass on the left. Unbelievable views of Gimsel - (a future project?!).

Nearing the top of Furka is the Rhone Glacier. This is the source of the Rhone river - that goes through Geneva and all the way to the Mediterranean. Just beautiful!

Above the glacier, clouds started rolling in so I got out of the saddle and rushed to the Pass. A quick photo and back down again - a very fast descent (even for wimpy me)!

I have ridden a lot of great climbs - and both of these rank right up there - a great day.

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Long Tour de Vuache

Will — Sun, 24 Aug 2008 16:58:58 +0000

Martin, Barry, and I are all doing The Big Cheese (Tour de Gruyere) next week. So we decided to do one final big ride in preparation.

One of the great rides from Geneva - 127 kms and about 1700 metres (5600 feet) of climb. This Tour de Vuache (Le Vuache is the mountain south west of Geneva) is on beautiful, quiet, hilly roads - it’s a superb loop.

Given that I am now a member of Team Poseur, I was of course more worried about eating than riding. So we stopped for lunch at the Chateau de Clermont for a three course feast - very civilized.

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I Have Signed With Team Poseur - Charlatan**

Will — Sat, 23 Aug 2008 11:13:11 +0000

From the official Team Poseur web site:

In 1966 the little known Poseur team toiled in the pro ranks in continental Europe. Sponsored by an air freshener company (or was it an industrial washbasin conglomerate?), their team was small and their budget, meager.

Strength-sapping sleet, bone-rattling cobbles, furnace-like temperatures on seemingly unendurable climbs: These were the conditions that defined the strong men of professional cycling in their day. Perhaps that is why one rarely hears of the legacy of Team Poseur.

Poseur riders battled forth against the giants of the road in their day. Scarcely did they earn the respect of their peers in the pro peloton, but did they flinch? Never! The heart of the true Poseur rider can withstand any insult.

Now times have taken their toll on the once mighty Poseur team. You only find them at the best coffee shops and bakeries, always riding easy and never taking the lead.

The Worst Cycling Team Ever?

The team’s Directeur Sportiv, Marc Piqûre dejectedly relates to us between swigs of Pernod in a small rain-soaked shop behind his house, “Some of the riders were afraid of taking the start. They would pretend to have a puncture when the call was made to come to the line to start the race. One time I caught Jean-Marie DeClunque taking a hacksaw to his frame before the final mountain stage of the ‘67 Tour …”

Do you have what it takes to rekindle and reclaim the glorious name of the Poseur?

**The title of article is a lie - I just like the shirt!

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Long Tour de Vuache

Cheese Country - Above Gruyere

Will — Mon, 18 Aug 2008 23:27:35 +0000

Visit the tourist office in or near beautiful Gruyere, Switzerland and they will provide a map with 10 superb (and signed) mountain bike routes.

They range from easy (by the lake) to extremely challenging.

Today - while the in-laws visited the super quaint perched village of Gruyère - Barry and I investigated a little bit of routes 2, 4, 7, and 10 - and most of route 9 (yes we got a little lost early on).

This is cycling country - stunning signed routes everywhere. Our main goal: Route 9 - wasn’t even rated the hardest. But long stretches in the high teens (seriously steep!) - hard work. But rewarding. And to keep me extra cheerful: a Col sign along the way (Col de Villard - see photo above).

This is also cow country - cheese making bovines everywhere. Even a “Warning, Beware of Cows!” sign:

Soon it became clear why the warning was necessary:

I had thought the route would take about 2 hours ….. almost 5 hours later we rolled into Moléson and met my nephews enjoying the mountain summer luge ride. It’s kid heaven in Moléson and they had 40(!) tickets up the lifts and down the slide. So while we searched for food, they (and Doreen!) kept passing us on the ski lifts with sleds in hand.

Starving, Barry and I ordered all-you-can-eat authentic alpine soup from the local chalet restaurant. Barry even offered to cook. Delicious!

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Berner Oberland: Klein and Gross Scheidegg

Will — Thu, 14 Aug 2008 18:43:45 +0000

The Jungfrau region of the Berner Oberland in the Central Swiss Alps is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It is also easily the most beautiful place I have ever cycled.

While Doreen and the in-laws did whatever in-laws do - I went cycling.

I love it here!

We were staying in the picture perfect car-free ski resort of Wengen (it hosts a World Cup Downhill event every year). Part of the Swiss National Mountain Bike Route One passes through here.

The pictures understate everything - it is truly stunning and awe-inspiring. First, I rode up to Klein Scheidegg (2,070 metres). Hoping to meet the gang I then hiked towards Mannlichen, finally bumping into them.

After a nice picnic lunch, I decided to keep going. Descending from Klein Scheidegg to Grindelwald is an amazing experience as it is under the famous Eiger (ogre) north face. This was the last great mountain to be climbed in Europe. Before World War 2, the Swiss authorties closed it due to the large number of deaths. Finally, four Austrians climbed it - including Heinrich Harrer (Brad Pitt played him in the film “Seven Years in Tibet”).

If you like Mountain Climbing Books read Harrer’s “The White Spider” detailing the ascent and history of the Eiger. A true classic and still very readable. Or for the TV generation, you can watch Clint Eastwood in the Cold War thriller “The Eiger Sanction.”

After descending below Grindelwald, I cycled up to Gross Scheidegg. STEEP! I was using a mountain bike but the route is fine for a road bike so I have included an elevation profile. A pretty epic climb.

The last several kilometres are car free - BUT local bus service is provided. It’s only a single lane and full of hairpins. And there are loads of warning signs to cyclists to descend carefully to avoid the

buses. Yikes, it was clear why these signs were necessary!

After descending back to Grindelwald I followed the easy valley route to Lauterbrunnen (fantastic rapids the whole way) and took the train back up to Wengen.

A great day!

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Col de l’Arpettaz

Will — Sun, 10 Aug 2008 16:49:03 +0000

The in-laws are in town! (Doreen’s sister, her husband, and their two sons). So as usual when we have visitors, we took them to beautiful Annecy and while they wandered the old town I went cycling.

On a perfect day, I took the Annecy bike path all the way to Ugine (30 kilometres). Just before Ugine was a turn off to Col de l’Arpettaz.

The Climb: 16.5 kms (10.2 miles); Ascent: 1,200 metres (3,940 feet)

If you like hairpins, this is the climb for you. A fantastic climb on a small very quiet road, winding up through alpine farms and a deciduous forest.

I had tried this climb in May 2006, but bumped into deep snow and couldn’t make it to the top. Unfinished business!

I used a road bike, but the road surface is poor. It’s a bit better down the other side. Perhaps better with a hybrid bike.

Such a pleasant climb alternating between the woods and alpine farmland. And as usual, ever improving views. At the top, Mont Blanc is barely visible, but I descended a couple of ks down the other side for a full view.

At the very top is a gravel road that goes all the way to Col des Aravis - a mountain bike project. Note, the Col sign has a spelling mistake (photo at top).

A bumpy descent and then a nice return to Annecy on the bike path. A 95 km loop.

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Col de la Madeleine and My New Professional Photographer(?!?)

Will — Tue, 05 Aug 2008 17:44:03 +0000

On a beautiful day, Barry, Eric and I headed into the Alps to climb the north side of the hors categorie Col de la Madeleine.

The Climb: 26.5 kms (16.5 miles); Ascent: 1,610 metres (5,280 feet)

The North side is probably the easier side of this giant climb as it is 6 kilometres longer with roughly the same ascent as the other side. Click here for details on the relentless South side of Madeleine.

The route took 20 years to build and is one of only two roads (Col d’Iseran far to the east) that crosses the Vanoise Alps.

It is named after a little 18th century chapel at the top dedicated to St Madeleine. Every July the people from each side of the mountain meet at the top for a celebration - historically, to re-acquaint after 8 months of snow blocking the pass.

Since its first appearance in 1969, this col has featured 22 times in the Tour de France, last appearing in 2005.

After a hot climb, we stopped for a great snack at the chalet at the top. Barry ordered an entire blueberry tart! Great.

Eric - who descends about twice as fast as me - kindly agreed to take some photos on the way down.

He is a very nice guy and a very strong cyclist. As a photographer? See the next three photos taken by Eric. You be the judge.

Whereas, a hot babe took this photo:

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Jura Giants: Col de la Biche and Col du Grand Colombier

Will — Sat, 02 Aug 2008 15:29:06 +0000

Now that the tour d’Enfer is over, I figured I should do some big local climbs while I am relatively fit.

Col de la Biche and Col du Grand Colombier are two of the hardest lessor known climbs in France. In the Jura mountains, they are both “roads to nowhere” meaning virtually no traffic (I saw 5 cars in over 3 hours on the climbs).

I started in Seyssel and started with Biche (it means “female deer”). It’s exceedingly steep with four kms averaging over 10% and three more above 9%. It starts out monotonous enough but the views of the Rhone and the alps improve every hairpin. At the top I had to dodge some cows.

I descended the other side and joined the road to Col du Grand Colombier near Lochieu.

Colombier is a monster with four great ways up. I actually joined the easiest of the four part way along the climb. For details on the truly steep and crazy hardest way click here.

Easy is relative, and there was still lots of work to do. All in all a 2,000 metre day of climbing and I felt pretty good. Nothing like deserted, steep climbs!

Colombe means Dove. Don’t confuse Grand Colombier with it’s more famous and nearby Alps cousin: Col de la Colombiere.

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2008 Tour d’Enfer Wrap Up

Will — Fri, 01 Aug 2008 15:08:04 +0000

The greatest cycling trip of my life. Ten great days cycling in the Alps with great company.

The Stats:

Distance: 740 kilometres (460 miles) Ascent: almost 20,000 metres (+66,000 feet)

Major Cols: Col de Joux Plane, Col de la Colombiere, Col des Aravis, Col des Saisies, Cormet de Roselend, Col de l’Iseran, Col du Mont Cenis, Col du Lautaret, Col du Galibier, Col du Granon, Col de l’Echelle, Col de Vars, Col d’Izoard, Col de la Cayolle, Col de la Bonette, Sainte Anne de Condamine, Col d’Allos, Col de Pontis, and a few other minor Cols.

Some Highlights? (map and slideshow at bottom)

#1 - Hail on Day One (yes hail!)

Welcome to the Alps! Climbing Col de la Colombiere we ran into a huge thunderstorm. As we got higher, it briefly turned to hail. Yikes.

There was really no other choice but to laugh and keep pedaling - as fast as possible.

#2 - Watching the Tour de France atop Galibier

Everyone watched the Tour de France in different places. Ralph and I braved a gauntlet of French police to make it to the very top of Col du Galibier.

As usual the crowds, the publicity caravan, the amazing views/climb - and the race itself - led to a memorable experience.

Too much fun!

# 3- Unbelievable scenery on every single day

Every single ride was stunningly beautiful and unique in its own way. The joke got to be that there was no way tomorrow could be better, but it always seemed to be.

There is nothing like cycling up high in the mountains.

# 4 - Great Company

I spent most of the rides either breathing heavy or laughing. I rode with loads of different people and had a great time absolutely every ride.

Yes, even during the hail.

#5 - Climbing Cime de la Bonette

It’s hard to pick a favorite climb, but everyone seemed especially excited and motivated cycling up Bonette - labeled as the highest road in Europe.

I was especially proud of Doreen, who had joined us in Barcelonnette, who persevered on her heavy touring bike to add this to her climb collection.

#6 - A Million Photo Opportunities

The Map: All the Cols, and a very rough route for 1st 6 days then we were based in Barcelonnette.

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Tour d’Enfer Day 10 - Col de Pontis

Will — Wed, 30 Jul 2008 12:44:22 +0000

While everyone else took the bus back to Geneva, Doreen and I decided on one last climb - the short, but super steep Col de Pontis.

Col de Pontis

Summit: 1,301 metres (4,270 feet)

The Route: 34 kms (21.1 miles); Ascent: 835 metres (2,740 feet);

In fact, from Barcelonnette the first 25 kilometres or so are actually flattish or downhill. The elevation chart starts from Ubaye.

Tour de France: As best I can tell, this has never appeared in the Tour.

This is a pretty amazing climb. STEEP(!) and wonderful view of Lac de Serre-Poncon. Doreen as usual, was unbelievably brave up slopes that terrified me on a very cautious descent.

My legs are now officially cooked - time to go home.

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