Perhaps the most painful fun ever. 174 kilometres, 5000 metres ascent (+16000 feet), over three of the most famous climbs in France.

How hard? Alpe d’Huez was the easy climb (see map for the nasty (sexy?) elevation profile below).

Yesterday, I completed my second Marmotte – in a heat wave. And while not fast by many standards, I managed to knock off 1 hour 24 minutes off my previous effort. I did really well until Alpe d’Huez, and then the heat nearly killed me. But the carnage of cyclists at each of the hairpins reminded me that a few others felt worse. The many supporters and the knowledge that I was almost done, kept me (slowly) pedaling. Very pleased.

Sadly, my bike’s video camera fell off in a tunnel descending Col du Lautaret – but fortunately I carry lots of devices. Here’s a video of the ride.

Here’s a few pics: many taken while on the bike:

2010 La Marmotte – Success!

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La Maurienne Valley in Savoie, France is one of the best base locations for cycling big and famous Tour de France climbs.

While the towns aren’t as cute or picture-perfect as one might find in Provence or Alsace – they are nice enough and are surrounded by stunning mountains. And if your main vacation priority is cycling uphill, you can’t go wrong.

In the map above the green arrows indicate the start of climbs. The thumb-tacks indicate the summits of the like coloured routes. And the little red flags indicate other interesting climbs. Click any marker for more info. Or click link at bottom of map for a larger version.

Here Are My 7 Top Cycling Climbs from La Maurienne Valley:

#1. Col du Galibier via Col du Télégraphe

One of the most famous climbs anywhere. Frequently, the highest pass in any given edition of the Tour de France.

This north side is the the tougher and more beautiful side. The biggest bottom-to-top altitude gain of any cycling climb in France.

See a detailed review here.

#2. Col de l’Iseran – south side

Iseran is the highest pass for a road bike in France (Cime de la Bonnette is not a pass).

This south side is the more interesting and remote side of this giant climb. Truly amazing ride.

For a detailed review see here.

#3. Col du Glandon

Yet another beautiful Hors Categorie climb. Glandon is on a small little road that just keeps going up. The last three kilometers are hair-pin heaven – and super steep.

At the top, one can add 2.5 kilometres to reach the slightly higher Col de la Croix de Fer from the backside. The first time I cycled this I went past a cyclist vomiting at the top. I love this climb.

For a detailed review see here.

#4. Col de la Croix de Fer via Col du Mollard

This is a lessor known way up this legendary climb. Col du Mollard is a superbe, winding climb that joins the route to Croix de Fer after bypassing several tunnels.

For a detailed review see here.

For details of the direct way up Croix de Fer see here.

#5. Col de la Madeleine

Yet another giant. This is the shorter and steeper side of Madeleine. Wide open and south-west facing, the top stretch can be an oven on hot days.
They serve great pie at the top (see pic).

For a detailed review see here.

#6. Col du Chaussy

Finally, a non Hors Categorie Climb. This lessor known climb has been advertised by a Touring company promising to reveal a secret gem to their clients.

The secret? The Lacets (hairpins) de Montvernier. This astonishing stretch at the start weaves straight up a cliff (see pic above).

The rest of the climb is enjoyable as well, and if you take a touring or mountain bike, it’s possible to follow some great high trails to Col de la Madeleine (see link below).

For a detailed review see here. Note, the descent in the review is down an alternate, quieter route from the top of Madeleine.

#7. Col du Mont Cenis

This is by far the easiest climb on the list – but is still above 2000 metres at the top, beside a large alpine lake. It’s at the Italian border, so feel free to descend and re-climb the more interesting south side.

Finally, for the Ambitious

While I haven’t put it on the map, a final idea for the strong and ambitious, is to do the giant loop that appears in La Marmotte cyclosportive.

Basically, climb Galbier, descend the other side – cycle past the base of Alpe d’Huez (or climb it), and return via the south-west side Col de la Croix de Fer.

See here for a map showing the route (but with a different start).

Happy Touring

La Maurienne Valley – 7 of the best climbs in France

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Any second now Col du Galibier will be closed for 7 or 8 months.

An alpine heat wave and Eric noticed that Galibier was still open up until the tunnel and just perhaps we could get higher. So why not?

A perfect day on the biggest climb in France – top to bottom – more than 2000 metres uphill – including Col du Télégraphe. 35 kms long (including a 4km descent) starting in St-Michel-de-Maurienne.

Paradise on a bike:

The Col in sight:

Yep, pretty pleased:

As always, thanks to my much stronger cycling partner Eric for taking some great pics.

Col du Galibier is Closed?

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The Col du Galibier – one of the highest and most famous climbs in France – is usually closed due to snow until late June. This leaves a climbing season of just three, maybe four, months.

And there are only so many perfect weekend days in July. So this morning five of us set out to cycle this beautiful monster.

The plan? The guys (Martin, Eric, and I) would cycle from St Michel-de-Maurienne taking the 35 kms route via Col du Télégraphe. And our brave girls, Doreen and Katy, would climb from Valloire.

Perfect! I think we all had an absolute blast – plus some hard work. It’s just so beautiful here. Télégraphe is no joke – 12 kms @ 7% but a fun climb with great views of the valley below. After descending to Valloire, there is a long straight stretch that at times is deceptively steep. The route gets ever more beautiful the further one climbs.

But at Plan Lachat, about 8 kms from the top, the road just turns up – and the real fun starts. The distant view of the Col is remarkable. This pass goes over the mountains.

I’ve written about this climb a lot previously, so now I’ll just post some photos and say I am very proud of my wife Doreen as well as Katy. And please excuse a proud husband for a few extra photos of his wife.

Click on photo during slide show for info:

Created with Admarket’s flickrSLiDR.

Col du Galibier with the Gang

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I take LOTS of photos while cycling. And occasionally I even take a good photo or two.

But when riding in Cyclosportives or along famous climbs there are often professional photographers along the route. The first few times I tried to avoid them even raising my hand to block the photo. But I have been converted.

As it can often lead to some pretty good shots. The pros will usually be standing in a prime spot with great scenery – or a 10% grade sign like the Mont Ventoux picture at left.

The Pros also do a great job of slightly tilting the landscape so it looks even steeper than reality – see 2nd and 3rd photo above. Don’t admit this to anyone looking at your photos though.

Here Are My Top Tips For Being Photographed By A Pro:

#1 Remember to Beat Your Friends

Most events take photos at the finish line.

This photo of Martin and I was at the finish line of the 2007 Cyclo Tour du Léman (174 kms around Lake Geneva). Notice how I carefully won by a foot! It’s on film now for eternity. Sorry Martin but I kicked your butt.

#2 Make It Look Like You Are Ahead of Everyone

I scan the routes ahead looking for photographers. I then ensure I am not behind anyone. Sometimes this entails speeding up …. but slowing down and letting the old guy go who’s wheel you have been sucking works VERY well.

In the photo on the left from Sunday’s Gruyere Cycling Tour, I slowed down and let a guy that was at least 70 speed away. In the photo on the right during La Marmotte, there are in fact perhaps 6000 riders ahead of me!

#3 Fake That You Are Strong

In June I rode the Morzine d’Aulps Cyclosportive during a heat wave. Almost 7 hours in I found myself 2/3’s of the way up the legendary Col de Joux Plane totally bonked, completely out of gas.

I stopped to breathe at a hairpin and suddenly saw the photographer. We eyed each other warily.

Then I got back on the bike and jumped out of the saddle while he loudly cheered me on. I turned the corner and immediately collapsed again. But an OK photo (despite my therapeutic sock)!

#4 Don’t Buy the Really Lousy Photos

Buying photos costs money – of course. Often the pro photos are pretty useless. And sadly, most of the shots of me descending seem like a crash is imminent.

The photo on the left is me during the 2008 Mont Blanc Time-Megeve – apparently riding over a field.

This race had about 10 photos for sale …. and this was the best. I passed.

#5 Save Money With A Team Shot

Nearing the top of Alpe d’Huez, I yelled at the photographer for a group shot “ensemble s’il vous plait!” of Martin and I. Damn – that sock again!

#6 Remember to Smile

Of course, my favorite. Doreen Conquers Alpe d’Huez.

#7 It’s Cheaper to Take Your Own Photos

It’s far more satisfying to take a good photo than to buy one. Cycling in the Swiss Alps Above Murren:

Handy Tips: How to Get Photographed by the Pros

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The Stats:

Distance: 740 kilometres (460 miles) Ascent: almost 20,000 metres (+66,000 feet)

Major Cols: Col de Joux Plane, Col de la Colombiere, Col des Aravis, Col des Saisies, Cormet de Roselend, Col de l’Iseran, Col du Mont Cenis, Col du Lautaret, Col du Galibier, Col du Granon, Col de l’Echelle, Col de Vars, Col d’Izoard, Col de la Cayolle, Col de la Bonette, Sainte Anne de Condamine, Col d’Allos, Col de Pontis, and a few other minor Cols.

Some Highlights? (map and slideshow at bottom)

#1 – Hail on Day One (yes hail!)

Welcome to the Alps! Climbing Col de la Colombiere we ran into a huge thunderstorm. As we got higher, it briefly turned to hail. Yikes.

There was really no other choice but to laugh and keep pedaling – as fast as possible.

#2 – Watching the Tour de France atop Galibier

Everyone watched the Tour de France in different places. Ralph and I braved a gauntlet of French police to make it to the very top of Col du Galibier.

As usual the crowds, the publicity caravan, the amazing views/climb – and the race itself – led to a memorable experience.

Too much fun!

# 3- Unbelievable scenery on every single day

Every single ride was stunningly beautiful and unique in its own way. The joke got to be that there was no way tomorrow could be better, but it always seemed to be.

There is nothing like cycling up high in the mountains.

# 4 – Great Company

I spent most of the rides either breathing heavy or laughing. I rode with loads of different people and had a great time absolutely every ride.

Yes, even during the hail.

#5 – Climbing Cime de la Bonette

It’s hard to pick a favorite climb, but everyone seemed especially excited and motivated cycling up Bonette – labeled as the highest road in Europe.

I was especially proud of Doreen, who had joined us in Barcelonnette, who persevered on her heavy touring bike to add this to her climb collection.

#6 – A Million Photo Opportunities

The Map: All the Cols, and a very rough route for 1st 6 days then we were based in Barcelonnette.

View Larger Map

2008 Tour d’Enfer Wrap Up

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Day 4 of the Tour d’Enfer was a free day. While many rested their sore legs in the hotel, Ralph and I went to watch the Tour de France climb Col du Galibier.

Perfect weather. The first 27 kms from Briancon were relaxing and not steep. But at Col du Lautaret things get interesting. With fans and campers everywhere, the Police were ready to close the road so we dashed past the barricade.

From then on we were periodically asked by the police to walk our bikes. So I decided to ask for a photo each time – we would then walk past and start riding again.

Here are my gendarmes series: (Note: the one police running at me and pointing in anger – and the female gendarmes walking away – the rest were friendly).

Ralph and I had too much fun today. Some more photos:

Tour d’Enfer Day 4 – Watching the Tour de France

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We may not be fast, but we are determined. The biggest ride of our lives by far! Wow!

Yesterday, Martin and I rode La Marmotte. Along with “L’Etape du Tour” – it is probably the most famous – and one of the the most challenging – Cyclosportive in France. 174 kilometres (108 miles) and 5,000 metres vertical ascent (16,400 feet)!

8,000 riders (!!) and a route that included three legendary hors category climbs – Col de la Croix Fer/Glandon, Col du Galibier via Télégraphe, and Alpe d’Huez. See here for a review and map of the route.

I think we are both pretty pleased with ourselves! I have decided that today is a rest day.

Anyone looking for the official results, they are now posted here. If you were in the race, photos can be purchased here and here.

I honestly never thought I could finish this event but my plan was simple:

• Pace myself
• Enjoy the rest stops (we had over an hour of non-moving time)
• Eat and drink like a pig all day (I gained weight)
• Only allow myself to buy a Marmotte Jersey if I finished (motivation!)

Here’s a brief video of our adventures and then a slide show.

We started near the back, and delays and 8,000 riders meant we shivered at the start for almost an hour after the 7am start time. Perfect weather to start the ride and it clouded over for some shade later in the day.

This is a truly international event and I met far more Dutch (everywhere!), Belgium, Italian and UK riders than French.

Climbing the beautiful Col de la Croix de Fer was a crowded affair. Cyclists everywhere – but superb! The top of Glandon (the route skipped the last 2 kms of Croix de Fer) was a zoo. Getting food and water was hard work but everyone was in great spirits.

After a hair-raising 20 kilometre decsent and 25 slightly uphill kilometres in the Maurienne valley, we attacked (?!) Galibier.
It is such a beautiful and epic climb. From Plan Lachat, the last 9 kilometres literally go over the Alps. It was cold up top but the last 45 minutes was just an amazing ride.

While climbing Galibier we heard a Marmotte giving it’s distinct warning screech. A propos!

The worst part of the day for me was definitely the 45 kilometre descent to Bourg d’Oisans. It was cold, long, 10 tunnels, some cars, etc. Like down Glandon, several hundred people passed me on the descent and Martin was very nice to wait for me.

But after 2,000 metres of vertical descent, the weather changed from freezing with snow beside the road to a heat-wave.

Climbing Alps d’Huez I felt (surprisingly) great. And I was really excited that I would actually finish. We passed maybe a couple of hundred riders up the hill, some walking, many slouched at one of the hairpins (the strong riders had finished hours ahead of us). But most determined to finish.

Overall, I had far more fun than I expected and it hurt a little less than feared. Epic!

La Marmotte 2008 – Success!

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Martin and I are signed up for the 2008 La Marmotte this coming saturday, July 5th.

Update: We made it! See here for photos, video and trip report.

La Marmotte (along with l’Etape du Tour) are probably the most famous and two of the most challenging Cyclosportives in France.

Saturday’s course: 174 kilometres and +5,000 metres of ascent (+17,000 feet). Three epic, beautiful, and legendary climbs with the easiest being Alpe d’Huez (seriously).

I don’t know the final count but there should be around 8,000 riders! I am number 5,943.

Here’s a quick preview of each climb with % grade profiles and a zoomable map at the end:

Climb #1 Col de la Croix de Fer

Summit: 1,924 metres; 6,310 feet (note this is summit of Glandon)

The Climb: 29.2 kms (18.2 miles); Ascent: 1,360 metres (4,460 feet)

After a few flat kilometres, the first climb will start near Rochetaillée. the route will climb most of the classic South side of Croix de Fer. But 2 kilometres from the summit, it will turn left immediately reaching the summit of Col du Glandon.

It’s a long, tough climb with varying grade including steep stretches and small downhills in the middle. It gets easier at the top as you ride past Lac de Grand Maison

The descent down Glandon will be crowded and extremely fast and it’s a narrow road – careful. There were some serious crashes in 2006 and racers had to be let down 50 at a time.

Climb #2 Col du Galibier (& Telegraphe)

Summit: 2,642 metres (8,670 feet)

The Climb (from St-Michelle-de-Maurienne): 34.8 kms (21.6 miles); Ascent: 2,120 metres (6,950 feet);

First, one needs to climb Col du Telegraphe (1,566 metres). A pleasant climb through the alpine forest – and a descent challenge in it’s own right.

A quick descent to Valloire – the forest disappears and then it’s up, up, and up. The climb literally goes over the mountains. This is such a beautiful ride, remember to try and enjoy it during the suffering.

While the top is not excessively steep, the rarefied altitude will significantly add to the difficulty near the end. A truly awesome climb.

Climb #3 Alpe d’Huez

Summit: 1850 metres (6,070 feet)

The Climb: 15.2 kms (9.4 miles); Ascent: 1,150 metres (3,770 feet);

After descending Galibier via Col du Lautaret, you may be exhausted, but you will find yourself at the bottom of Alpe d’Huez and it’s 21 famous hairpins – each named for a former Tour stage winner here. The first two kilometres are very hard, the rest is just hard! Good luck and remember to enjoy the views!

To be clear, I don’t expect to finish this course – it’s really beyond my capabilities. And with my bad calf, my priority is not to aggravate the injury before our July Alps Tour. But we’ll see.

La Marmotte 2008 Preview

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Here is a preview of stage five of the upcoming July 2008 Lost Boys Tour d’Enfer.

A trip organized by my friend Leslie that will include people from the USA, Canada, France, Turkey, Germany, and Switzerland.

All 2008 Tour d’Enfer Previews can be found here.

While day three will have seen the Tour d’Enfer ride the longest climb in France – Day five’s challenge will be the biggest vertical ascent climb in France (including Télégraphe).

Along with Alpe d’Huez and Mont Ventoux, Col du Galibier is one of the greatest cycling cols in France, and is the 4th highest mountain pass in France.

Day 5: Col du Galibier via Col du Télégraphe

The Stage: Approximately 71 kilometres (44 miles); Ascent: 2,120 metres (6,950 feet)

Today’s route will be in the opposite direction of the previous day’s Tour de France stage. This is definitely the more interesting side of Galibier and a truly special route.

View Map In Google Earth (requires Google Earth)
Download GPX file
Download Garmin .crs file

View Larger Map

Col du Galibier (including Telegraphe)

Summit: 2,642 metres (8,670 feet)

The Climb (from St-Michelle-de-Maurienne): 34.8 kms (21.6 miles); Ascent: 2,120 metres (6,950 feet);

2008 will be the 31st time that Col du Galibier has been in the Tour de France – more than any other climb in the Alps – first appearing in 1947.

The list of riders to be first over Galibier include such legends as Coppi, Gaul, Merckx, and Pantani.

Rated Hors Categorie (hardest rating) Col du Galibier is of course on Le Cycle Magazine’s list of the 30 most beautiful climbs in France.

In 1979 the route was raised above the tunnel by 90 metres and now literally goes over the mountain.

In 2007, the Tour and your author climbed Galibier from this side. This day alone will make your trip!

The climb can be split into four parts. First, the Col du Telegraphe is a great climb on it’s own. 12 kilometres (over 7 miles) generally at a steady 7% grade. It’s a very pleasant ride that winds it way up through the woods – but still hard work.

The second part is a 5km (3 mile) descent into the ski resort of Valloire – enjoy the rest! The third part is a straight shot (8kms, 5 miles) up through the valley with high Alps on either side. Occasionally into the wind, this can feel harder than it looks. You are now above the tree line.

Finally, at Plan Lachat, the ride gets epic. The route seems to turn up, and yes it’s going to go OVER the mountains. During the last 8kms (5 miles) you will feel the altitude and the tiredness of the last few days. Make sure to take time to read the tour graffiti all over the road.

Once at the top, it is 35 kilometres (22 miles) descent – past Col du Lautaret – all the way to the hotel! Remember, just below the top on the other side is the big monument to Tour Founder Henri Desgranges (photo below).

Lost Boys 2008 Tour d’Enfer – Day 5 Preview

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