This is the fourth article in a series detailing the 684 kilometre Route des Grandes Alpes. A great cyclo-tourist route through the French Alps, over 16 mountain passes, on a road linking Lake Geneva (Lac Léman) to the Mediterranean Sea. The main goal of these articles is to highlight alternate route options and interesting detours.
Part 1 is here: Route des Grandes Alpes – Stage 1
Part 2 is here: Route des Grandes Alpes – Stage 2
Part 3 is here: Route des Grandes Alpes – Stage 3
Part 5 is here: Route des Grandes Alpes – Stage 5
Part 6 is here: Route des Grandes Alpes – Stage 6
Part 7 is here: Route des Grandes Alpes – Stage 7
Stage 4: Lanslebourg to Briançon
Official Route (blue track on map):
Distance: 115 Kilometres
Ascent: 2300 metres
Descent: 2450 Metres
Below, I will explain the map in some detail (or click any point on map for additional info).
The Official Route
This stage climbs the best, north side of Col du Galibier, via Col du Télégraphe. At 2642 metres, Galibier is one of the highest, and perhaps the most famous, climb in the French Alps. Woohoo.
The first 45 kilometres or so are down low – in the Maurienne valley – ever so slightly downhill the entire way. It’s not my favourite stretch of road (avoid via detour 2 below). But then, at St-Michel-de-Maurienne the fun begins. First Col du Télégraphe, a tough and scenic climb in its own right.
But the real fun is the last 9 kilometres or so of Galibier, above Plan Lachat. For a complete look at all sides of Galibier see here. For a brief history of this legendary climb, see here.
The top 8.5 kilometres of the south side – above Col du Lautaret – are also superb. Then from Lautaret, it’s a fast, non-technical, descent all the way to Briançon on the main road.
Detour 1 – Briançon via Italy
110 kms, 2600 metres of ascent.
The yellow line on the map. For those that already know Col du Galibier – here is an alternate route that visits Italy and completely replaces the official Route des Grandes Alpes. But it starts and ends in the exact same towns as the official route.
As mentioned in the previous post, the climb to Col du Mont Cenis is fabulous. The French side is far shorter than the Italian side, but the lake at the summit is beautiful and worth visiting.
This strategic pass was first made into a road by Napoleon, but the Emperor Constantine, Charlemagne and possibly even Hannibal also crossed the Alps with armies here. Here is my brief history: Mont Cenis: From Elephants to Emperors to … Cyclists – including plenty of info for cyclo-tourists.
Once this detour descends into Italy, it’s of course necessary to climb back into France, to Briançon. While the obvious choice is via Col de Montgenèvre (1854 metres), this is a busy-ish climb with lots and lots of tunnels (although an old road can bypass some of these). Instead, I suggest taking Colle della Scala (Col de l’Echelle; 1762 metres). This crosses into France to a scenic, quiet valley, before eventually descending into Briançon.
Note, the lower portion of this detour, between Susa and Bardonecchia is not fabulous, but ride-able.
Detour 2 – Aussois
The red line on the map. The stretch between Lanslebourg and St-Michel-de-Maurienne is flat or gently downhill but on a road that gets very fast traffic. To quote my friend Tim, commenting on the stage 3 post: “I think that stretch of road was about the worst part of the entire route-des-grandes-alpes.” I agree.
To avoid much of it, take this detour. Be forewarned, this adds a little more climb – perhaps 350 metres. But it is worth it. Note, the second half of this detour joins a great, even quieter, 3rd road that passes by some of the old, well preserved, 19th century fortifications in this stretch of the Maurienne valley. Very fun:
Also note, above Aussois, up through the ski slopes is an excellent climb to two beautiful dams/lakes. This link includes the ride to the dams and the forts.
Detour 3 – The Maurienne Valley
The first half of this stage runs through the Maurienne valley. It is perhaps the greatest valley in Europe for famous climbs – Iseran, Croix de Fer, Mont Cenis, Madeleine, Glandon, Lacets de Monvernier, Galibier/Télégraphe, Mollard, Plan du Lac, etc. Once could base themselves in the valley for a day or two and visit a few of these amazing roads – before attacking Galibier.
For example, just ten kilometres past the start of Galibier/Télégraphe are the Lacets (hairpins) de Montvernier:
I won’t go into a full review of the region. But here is a detailed post with map outlining the 15 best climbs in the valley.
Detour 4 – Alpe d’Huez
I know, you really want to visit Alpe d’Huez. I think it is hugely over-rated – see 100 Climbs Better Than Alpe d’Huez – but it is certainly possible to add to this tour.
Two options:
- Skip Galibier and head to Bourg d’Oisans via either Col de la Croix de Fer or Col du Glandon …. both great climbs. To rejoin Route des Grandes Alpes, climb to Col du Lautaret, and descend to Briançon – beware this climbs up through 10 tunnels, some dark and wet, on a fairly busy road.
- Climb Galibier, descend to Col du Lautaret, then descend to Bourg d’Oisans (beware the same 10 shitty tunnels).
For much of 2015, the road between Bourg d’Oisans – the base of Alpe d’Huez – and Col du Lautaret was cut-off due to the closure of a tunnel. An emergency bypass route has finally been opened, but one should check that it is still open before touring here.
If you decide to base yourself for a few days near Alpe d’Huez – see this article: Beyond Alpe d’Huez: The Best Cycling Climbs from Bourg d’Oisans.
Road Openings: Col du Galibier (2642m) is usually opened early June. In 2014, it opened the last couple of days in May – the earliest I remember. One of the challenges here is that different Departments clear each side. The north side above the tunnel often has avalanches so is last to open – BUT it can be possible to cycle through the tunnel (2556m). Bikes are not permitted through the single lane tunnel – regulated by a traffic light – but I’ve done it with the blessing of the official road crew when the col is closed. Galibier is reliably open through September. I’ve ridden it as late as Oct. 26th – but don’t count on it. Alternates: Both the Mont Cenis and Col de la Croix de Fer detours should be ride-able early to mid May. Col du Lautaret is often open for much of the year as a key through road. Official Savoie Col open/closed map here.
A Final Word
I love Galibier, one of the great cycling climbs in Europe. But this stage has many options for those that have already visited. And as much as any other stage on the Route des Grandes Alpes, there are opportunities to base oneself for an extra day or two to explore.
More good news: Col du Galibier even has its own beer. Photo taken at the Henri Desgranges monument – at the tunnel exit on south side.
7 Comments
Fantastic stuff Will! Great advice to take a couple of days to explore all the wonderful climbs in the Maurienne valley. While col de la croix de fer (if done via col du mollard) and glandon are both fantastic, is it really an option to skip galibier to do alpe d’huez?? Surely not! 🙂
Tim, I always try to be clear that – relative to other nearby climbs – Alpe d’Huez is hugely over-rated. But it is easily the most asked about climb.
I think skipping Galbier is only a good idea for people that already know Galibier (and perhaps want to see something new). Glandon or Croix de Fer via Mollard are both terrific, but – as you hint – Galibier is king.
Excellent advice, as always. If anyone wants to add some gravel biking to their Route des Grandes Alpes adventure, then there is another alternative instead of the mighty Galibier (although I agree that if you’ve never done Galibier before, then it shouldn’t be missed). Between Modane in the Maurienne valley and Bardonecchia in Italy, there is the Colle della Rho (https://it.wikipedia.org/wiki/Colle_della_Rho). The first part of the road up from Modane is paved, then it turns into a decent-quality dirt road, then once you pass the last farms at around 2000 metres it gets really rough with sections that are unrideable. The top is around 2550 metres. On the Italian side, it’s a rough track down to about 2300 metres, where there are some old military barracks, then it becomes an OK dirt road for the remainder. most people would think that a mountain bike would be the only tool for the job, but I took my gravel bike over there with 28mm tires and lightly-loaded panniers and had a great time (I climbed the south side), see here: https://www.strava.com/activities/233675072. It’s a tough route, but I found it very rewarding to do this almost forgotten col. From Bardonechia, the Col de l’Echelle is a very convenient way to Briancon, and like you mentioned is very quiet. This version also has the advantage of being the shortest option and skips the unpleasant main roads from Modane to the base of the Telegraphe and from Lauteret to Briancon.
Hi Chris, excellent, thanks. I remember when you did Colle della Rho – I must try it. I think it shares the start of another interesting gravel road that crosses that section of the Alps from France to Italy: Col du Fréjus (Colle del Fréjus) just a few kms to the east of Rho. Looking at a map they are both 2541 metres – impressive – and both have old military ruins along the way. Here are details of Col du Fréjus (I didn’t descend the Italian side, but I think it’s possible, if tricky at the very top). https://www.cycling-challenge.com/colle-del-frejus-col-du-frejus/
I looked at both Col du Fréjus and the Rho, and had originally thought that Fréjus would be the better option. I was lucky enough to stay in a B&B in Bardonecchia run by a guy who has been over both with a mountain bike. He told me that the Italian side of Fréjus is largely unrideable because it’s much steeper and rougher than Rho. The upper section on the French side of Fréjus certainly looks more rideable than for Rho, but I believe that when combining both sides, there is a far greater proportion of Rho that is rideable than for Fréjus. Rho was great, so I was happy with my decision. If I was just going up from Modane and returning the same way, I’d probably choose Fréjus, but for someone doing the Route des Grandes Alpes, then Rho is probably the better option. Or, add an extra day to your trip and do both, and give us the full report!
There is a great local climb one the border of Briancon and Forville. Head north on the Route de Grenoble and look for the Route du Poet Allagnier on the right. Seems to me there is a hospital or some kind of medical offices at the base. Beautiful, fun climb that ends on an outcropping that has a great overlook of the city of Briancon. Well worth the time and paved for road wheels.
Aussois – Good option to get off the valley road – thanks for the tip.
We rode up the valley from the foot of the Telegraph to Modane on a Sunday morning. Although this short section will never be scenic, the roads were almost empty, making the section bearable. I’ve ridden in the opposite direction on a weekday – quite a lot of traffic but you have the advantage of going downhill.